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From Chanel’s “mourning dress” to the cloak of English soldiers: five iconic outfits that have entered world fashion

WE DO NOT SAVE ON FABRIC

French couturier Christian Dior considered to be the man who gave new life to fashion in the twentieth century. In the post-war years, the silhouette that Dior presented to fashionistas became a worldwide sensation. He received the uncomplicated name “new look” (new image). Thanks to the couturier, the ladies once again felt feminine and elegant due to the emphasized waist (for this, in particular, corsets were used) and the fluffy skirt, which just said: “Beauties, we no longer save on fabrics!”.

Christian Dior.  Bar jacket from the 1947 collection.

Christian Dior. Bar jacket from the 1947 collection.

A photo: EAST NEWS

One of the most important elements of the “new look” was the “bar” jacket. It was created not for evening outings, but for pleasant gatherings in a cafe or restaurant for new generation fashionistas. He was distinguished by the clarity of lines, while combining the rounded edges of the peplum, and also emphasized the aspen waist, graceful shoulders and neck.

Christian Dior working on a new collection, 1947

Christian Dior working on a new collection, 1947

A photo: EAST NEWS

By the way, the fashion trends of the “new look” by the mid-50s reached the Soviet Union, reflected in the image of the heroine Lyudmila Gurchenko in the film “Carnival Night”.

Lyudmila Gurchenko in the film

Lyudmila Gurchenko in the film “Carnival Night”.

FOR WOMEN WITH GOOD TASTE

Gabrielle Chanel became a revolutionary in women’s fashion at the beginning of the 20th century. By her own example, she showed that not only men can wear trousers, she refused to emphasize the waist with corsets, dressed up in loose outfits, and also brought vests into fashion. But that’s not all.

Thanks to the efforts Chanel, the vocabulary of fashionistas was replenished with the phrase “little black dress”. It is believed that every woman should have such an outfit. Vogue magazine called Chanel’s black dress “a uniform for women with good taste.” Everyone dreamed of becoming the owner of such an outfit.

Black Chanel dresses on display in Hamburg 2014

Black Chanel dresses on display in Hamburg 2014

A photo: GLOBAL LOOK PRESS

But a priori, the black dress from Chanel was not so small – it had long sleeves, a boat neckline, and a hem length below the knee. Some believe that Chanel chose the black color for the iconic dress for a reason – it was a sign of mourning for the deceased lover Arthur Capel. But this is not entirely true, since the dress was born in 1926, 7 years after the death of Arthur.

In her old age, Chanel gave the world a tweed jacket, which became a legend for many decades. At the age of 70, the couturier has rethought tweed, which has long been used to create men’s suits and coats. Her jacket – without lapels and collar – is still popular. It became an unspoken symbol of wealth, worn by such fashionistas as Grace Kelly and Jacqueline Kennedy.

Coco Chanel in 1968.

Coco Chanel in 1968.

A photo: EAST NEWS

After the death of Chanel, the tweed jacket was repeatedly rethought by the creative director of the fashion house. Karl Lagerfeld.

RUSSIAN SARAFAN IN FRENCH

Talent Yves Saint Laurent, even when he was a young talent, one of the first to see was Christian Dior, taking him as his assistant. After the death of the master, it was Saint Laurent who became the artistic director of the house of Dior. In 1958, the couturier released his Trapeze collection, in which he rethought the Russian sundress. In general, Russian motifs will run like a red line through all the work of Saint Laurent, receiving an unusual and original interpretation.

Yves Saint Laurent in the 50s.

Yves Saint Laurent in the 50s.

A photo: EAST NEWS

Dress from the collection "Trapeze" 1958 at the San Francisco Fashion Museum.

Dress from the 1958 Trapeze Collection at the San Francisco Fashion Museum.

A photo: en.wikipedia.org

Trapeze became a revolution in the fashion world: a loose and even baggy cut put an end to Dior’s sophisticated “hourglass” “new look”. With this collection, a new era began – the era of minimalism and futurism of the 60s.

Dresses "Mondrian" inspired the fashion of the sixties.

Mondrian dresses inspired the fashion of the sixties.

A photo: en.wikipedia.org

The logical continuation in the work of Yves Saint Laurent was the Mondrian dress, one of the most important inventions of his career. This dress is called a cult and symbol of the 60s. The fall-winter 1965 collection was extremely fruitful for Saint Laurent. Many important dresses appeared in it, including the “matryoshka” dress and the “Mondrian” dress. The couturier was inspired to create this dress by the work of the Dutch artist Piet Mondrian, who at the beginning of the 20th century created a new movement – neoplasticism.

CHECKED TRENCH

Trench coat with signature Burberry checkered lining is one of the most versatile things, according to both solid Hollywood stars and young bloggers. He appeared in Britain in 1879, but not to the delight of fashionistas, but to protect ordinary soldiers. Its author was the owner of the studio Thomas Burberry. Initially, he created a unique waterproof, durable and breathable fabric – gabardine.

Thomas Burberry created a unique waterproof, durable and breathable fabric - gabardine.

Thomas Burberry created a unique waterproof, durable and breathable fabric – gabardine.

A photo: en.wikipedia.org

The material gained fame among hunters and fishermen, as well as among the military – the slogan attracted their attention: “Thomas Burberry’s gabardine is an ideal material for India and all British colonies. It is able to withstand winds, rains and thorny bushes.”

The trench coat itself was first tailored during the First World War for British soldiers. Some elements that give a reference to those times have remained to this day. For example, epaulettes were used for patches, a belt made it possible to attach various military accessories, and a double row of buttons made the cloak more durable.

Advertisement for Burberry army trench coats from World War I.

Advertisement for Burberry army trench coats from World War I.

In the 1920s, Burberry added a Nova Check checkered lining to the raincoat. The trench coat became a cult wardrobe item worn by Arthur Conan Doyle, Bernard Shaw and Winston Churchill.

branded "cell" from Burberry has survived to this day and is in no hurry to lose ground.

Branded “cell” from Burberry has survived to the present day and is in no hurry to lose ground.

Throughout the 20th century, Burberry’s beige raincoat fashion did not subside. It is no coincidence that the heroine Audrey Hepburn in the movie “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” in one of the scenes appears in this trench coat.

Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's.

Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

A photo: EAST NEWS

Wanting to repeat the success, the designers of the fashion house in the 70s released a similar checkered cashmere scarf. But the furore was short-lived. In the 2000s, the scarf began to be massively counterfeited, which put the brand on the verge of bankruptcy.

The Burberry scarf became so popular that fakes almost killed the company.

The Burberry scarf became so popular that fakes almost killed the company.

A photo: Shutterstock

FASHION SADDLE

The Italian fashion house Gucci was founded in Florence in 1921. Over the years of its existence, its creators have produced everything: suitcases, bags, horse harness, and saddles. The first to think about expanding the brand, and this happened in the 50s, was Aldo Gucci – son of the founder of the fashion house Guccio Gucci. He came up with the idea to switch to the production of shoes. This is how the iconic leather loafers with buckles appeared.

Gucci brought iconic leather buckle loafers to the height of fashion.

Gucci brought iconic leather buckle loafers to the height of fashion.

A photo: Shutterstock

– The inspiration for the creation of the fastener in the form of two rings and a slat between them was the accessories of the riders, – recalls the creative director of Gucci Frida Giannini.

In addition to loafers, we should also note the green-red-green ribbon that adorns so many Gucci products, including clothes. These stripes appeared thanks to the founder of the brand Guccio Gucci, who worked in his youth as a doorman in a hotel in London. The Italian was strongly impressed by equestrian sports, where riders used tricolor belts to fasten the saddle. After that, he decided to use such a tape when creating his things.

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